Shees...sorry guys!
I misplaced the notebook where I had the password info for this account, and had to request it be reset. So what happens? They sent a notification to EVERYONE!
Was just checking up on this account for the revival of the photography club this coming year. You can ignore that email for the most part...
Missamo
Saturday, July 16, 2011
Friday, May 14, 2010
Thursday, May 13, 2010
Spring Flowers
I noticed a lot of flowers in my yard this past week, so I decided to get out my camera and take some pictures. These have been photoshopped a little, but I tried to keep them looking realistic.
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
January Photo Contest - Friends!
last week, we introduced our first photo contest - Friends!
Here are a few reminders:
Anyone in the Eden Photography Club can enter the contest, provided club dues are up to date. ( $25 )
You may enter a maximum of three (3) photos.
The photos must have been taken after the announcement of the contest. (1/18/10)
The photos must be of friends of yours from home, school, church, neighbors, etc.
The photos must be candids. No posing! (ie. subject NOT looking into the camera)
The photos must be posted here ON our blog, and on this thread with the name of the photographer clearly displayed (so we know who to vote for!) (AND WHO TO GIVE THE FIRST PLACE PRIZE TO!)
You need to ask for and receive permission from your models/subjects to post their photographs on the internet. (Explain to them that our blog is private: only members of the Eden Photography Blog have access to view these pictures)
You may show your friends their pictures, but do NOT give then access to our blog.
The contest will end on Friday 1/29/10.
The winner, as judged by Mr. Mohr and Mr. Schaude will be able to choose between a new tripod or a new camera gadget bag as First Prize.
Here are a few reminders:
Anyone in the Eden Photography Club can enter the contest, provided club dues are up to date. ( $25 )
You may enter a maximum of three (3) photos.
The photos must have been taken after the announcement of the contest. (1/18/10)
The photos must be of friends of yours from home, school, church, neighbors, etc.
The photos must be candids. No posing! (ie. subject NOT looking into the camera)
The photos must be posted here ON our blog, and on this thread with the name of the photographer clearly displayed (so we know who to vote for!) (AND WHO TO GIVE THE FIRST PLACE PRIZE TO!)
You need to ask for and receive permission from your models/subjects to post their photographs on the internet. (Explain to them that our blog is private: only members of the Eden Photography Blog have access to view these pictures)
You may show your friends their pictures, but do NOT give then access to our blog.
The contest will end on Friday 1/29/10.
The winner, as judged by Mr. Mohr and Mr. Schaude will be able to choose between a new tripod or a new camera gadget bag as First Prize.
Sunday, December 13, 2009
For you, Missamo
Ok, so I finally find out how to change the aperture setting on my camera (its harder than you think) and I decided to take some images with all different settings. I created an animated image scrolling through all the different f-stops. The time the lens was open ranged from normal to 8 seconds!
Click on the image to see the whole thing... Sorry about that...
Friday, December 4, 2009
Project 2: The Exposure Triangle – Aperture Priority
Getting things in focus!
(Note #1: A review of what we discussed during activity period is first. Skip this and go to the bottom where the Project is covered if you know this already.)
(Note #2: This whole discussion assumes we are talking about using available light, and not using a flash to change the conditions.)
At the club meeting today, we discussed taking the camera off full automatic mode, and taking creative control of the three elements of proper exposure.
Without repeating everything, let me hit the highlights so you can come back here for a reminder if you find you need a refresher.
The three elements are of proper exposure are:
(image from googleimages)
These three elements work together to produce a properly exposed image. If you change one of them for whatever reason, the other 2 must be balanced so the correct amount of light reaches the camera's sensor.
ISO - This is the measure of the sensitivity of the camera's sensor to light. The higher the number, the more sensitive the sensor is. At ISO 800 or 1600, you can take pictures of stars!
Sample settings are:
100 - outdoors in bright sunlight
200 - outdoors on a cloudy or overcast day, or possibly brightly lit indoors
400 - evening, indoors perhaps where a flash is prohibited - concerts, churches, sporting events, museums
800 - dimly lit, nighttime picture taking
1600 - etc
Higher ISO settings result in grainy pictures which can be an interesting effect if that's what you're aiming for. Refer to the manual for your camera and figure out how to change the ISO setting to match the lighting conditions. Remember to change it back when you are finished!
For more on ISO settings and sample images, check here.
Shutter Speed - The amount of time the shutter is open allowing light to reach the sensor. The shutter is used to stop the action in a moving scene, or to allow blur to give the feeling of motion.
Shutter speeds are measured in seconds; either fractions of a second, or full seconds.
Sample settings are:
1/60 - meaning the shutter is only open for 1/60 of a second.
1/125 - open for 1/125 of a second
1/250 - etc
1/500 - etc
or:
1" The shutter is open for 1 second
2" Open for 2 seconds
4" etc...
Faster shutter speeds allow less light in because the shutter is open for a shorter period of time, and this helps freeze the action.
Think about how you want the final picture to look. Do you want to freeze the action? Then a faster shutter speed is needed. (1/250 or 1/500) If you want blur, a slower shutter speed will work. (1/30 or 1/15)
A quick note on blur: There are 2 kinds of blur that can occur in photos. One is caused by the motion of the subject, or other objects in the frame. The other is caused by the motion of the camera when you don't or can't hold it steady enough.
The difference between the two types of blur is that for the first, only moving objects appear to be blurry. Non-moving objects appear clear and sharp. For the second, when the camera is unsteady, everything appears blurry, even objects that are not moving, and the shot is almost certainly ruined.
The simplest way to control camera shake is to hold the camera correctly. Check here for a quick overview.
Motion blur can be controlled by faster shutter speeds. If you must use a slow shutter speed, a tripod will be necessary to stabilize the camera.
For more on shutter speed and some sample pictures, check here.
Aperture - This is the opening in the lens which can be adjusted to let in more or less light. You chose the size of the opening, and the camera matches that setting with the correct shutter speed. The main purpose of controlling the aperture is to control how much of the frame is in focus, and how much of the foreground and background are out of focus. (The DoF, or "depth of field")
Aperture settings are called f-stops, and are usually whole numbers or written in decimal form.
Sample settings are:
f/22 - the opening is very small limiting the amount of light allowed in; everything will be in focus all the way out to infinity; great for landscapes.
f/16
f/11
f/8. mid-range setting; good for sports
f/5.4
f/2.8
f/1.8 the widest setting allowing the most light in; depending on the distance from the camera, only the subject will be in focus while the foreground and background will be out of focus. Great for portraits.
Here is a video tutorial:
For more on aperture and some sample pictures, check here.
These 3 elements (ISO, aperture setting and shutter speed) need to be balanced to achieve a properly exposed photo. If you get it wrong, the picture will either appear too light or too dark. When this happens, think about what steps you can take to correct it. Do you need more light or less?
If you need more light because the picture is too dark, use a slower shutter speed and let more light in. (1/60 instead of 1/125 for example) But remember, your picture could be blurry because the motion can't be frozen as well at slower shutter speeds, and because it's harder to hold the camera steady.
You could try a wider aperture. (f/2.4 instead of f/8.0 for example) This will let in more light, but will also change the depth of field.
You can also increase the ISO setting to increase the sensitivity of the camera sensor. But remember, the higher the ISO, the more grainy the pictures will appear.
If the picture is overexposed and you need to let in less light, use a faster shutter speed, a higher aperture setting, or lower the ISO.
The best way to learn is to make a conscious decision to try to take a picture a certain way. For example, a portrait of a family member where the background and foreground are out of focus. Then, experiment with your camera settings and take a lot of pictures until you get a feel for it.
Here's a good step-by-step procedure.
1. Set your ISO to match the lighting conditions. (see the section on ISO above. Check your manual for how to change your ISO setting.)
2. Set your camera on Aperture Priority mode. (Av on the dial - or check your manual for how to do this.)
(this is my camera)
3. Set your aperture to a low setting - f/2.8 or lower if possible. Check your manual for how to change the aperture to a low setting once you take the camera off full automatic mode. (The green rectangle is full automatic mode in the picture above. Turn the dial back to full automatic mode when you are done with your photo session.)
4. Set up your shot. If you are doing a portrait of a person, make sure there is a foreground and a background that will appear out of focus. If you are shooting still life objects, put them far enough apart in the foreground and background that some will appear out of focus.
5. Focus on your subject. No need to worry about the Rule of Thirds for this project, but if you want to use it, you may want to set your camera on manual focus. Remember that most cameras focus on whatever is in the center of the frame. Use "Focus Lock" to focus on subjects that are not in the center, or put the camera on manual focus. (See my earlier article on focus lock here.)
5. Experiment! Take several shots of the same setup with different objects in focus. (See my chess photo below. How could I redo this setup differently? Want to try it yourself?)
6. Post a couple of your shots here for all of us to see! Send me an email and I will make you an Author: dmohr@edenca.org
7. Have fun with it!!
Project 2: Aperture Priority and Depth of Field.
This week's project assignment is to learn how to take photographs where the subject is in focus, but the foreground and background are out of focus. You should take some portrait shots of people, and some still life shots of objects around your house or the school. (Try both!)
Take some close up shots of objects sitting on a table at different distances from the camera.
Here are a couple sample shots I took to demonstrate the technique.
The knight on the right is in clear focus while the rook in the foreground and the queen in the background are out of focus. (Click the picture for a closer view.) Also notice this picture is a bit grainy because I used ISO 400. This is called "noise".
Most of the wasp is in focus, but the leaves in the foreground, and the foliage in the background are out of focus. If you look closely you can see that the DoF is so narrow that the entire wasp isn't in focus. The legs closer to the camera are a bit blurry. A higher f-stop will correct this.
I couldn't tell at the time by looking at the picture on the camera's preview window, but when I loaded it onto my computer and looked at it full size, I noticed that the trees in the foreground were in focus, but my family behind the trees were out of focus because the DoF was too narrow. The camera auto-focus assumed I wanted the trees in focus.
This could be corrected by either putting the camera in manual focus mode, or using a higher f stop.
(Note #1: A review of what we discussed during activity period is first. Skip this and go to the bottom where the Project is covered if you know this already.)
(Note #2: This whole discussion assumes we are talking about using available light, and not using a flash to change the conditions.)
At the club meeting today, we discussed taking the camera off full automatic mode, and taking creative control of the three elements of proper exposure.
Without repeating everything, let me hit the highlights so you can come back here for a reminder if you find you need a refresher.
The three elements are of proper exposure are:
(image from googleimages)
These three elements work together to produce a properly exposed image. If you change one of them for whatever reason, the other 2 must be balanced so the correct amount of light reaches the camera's sensor.
ISO - This is the measure of the sensitivity of the camera's sensor to light. The higher the number, the more sensitive the sensor is. At ISO 800 or 1600, you can take pictures of stars!
Sample settings are:
100 - outdoors in bright sunlight
200 - outdoors on a cloudy or overcast day, or possibly brightly lit indoors
400 - evening, indoors perhaps where a flash is prohibited - concerts, churches, sporting events, museums
800 - dimly lit, nighttime picture taking
1600 - etc
Higher ISO settings result in grainy pictures which can be an interesting effect if that's what you're aiming for. Refer to the manual for your camera and figure out how to change the ISO setting to match the lighting conditions. Remember to change it back when you are finished!
For more on ISO settings and sample images, check here.
Shutter Speed - The amount of time the shutter is open allowing light to reach the sensor. The shutter is used to stop the action in a moving scene, or to allow blur to give the feeling of motion.
Shutter speeds are measured in seconds; either fractions of a second, or full seconds.
Sample settings are:
1/60 - meaning the shutter is only open for 1/60 of a second.
1/125 - open for 1/125 of a second
1/250 - etc
1/500 - etc
or:
1" The shutter is open for 1 second
2" Open for 2 seconds
4" etc...
Faster shutter speeds allow less light in because the shutter is open for a shorter period of time, and this helps freeze the action.
Think about how you want the final picture to look. Do you want to freeze the action? Then a faster shutter speed is needed. (1/250 or 1/500) If you want blur, a slower shutter speed will work. (1/30 or 1/15)
A quick note on blur: There are 2 kinds of blur that can occur in photos. One is caused by the motion of the subject, or other objects in the frame. The other is caused by the motion of the camera when you don't or can't hold it steady enough.
The difference between the two types of blur is that for the first, only moving objects appear to be blurry. Non-moving objects appear clear and sharp. For the second, when the camera is unsteady, everything appears blurry, even objects that are not moving, and the shot is almost certainly ruined.
The simplest way to control camera shake is to hold the camera correctly. Check here for a quick overview.
Motion blur can be controlled by faster shutter speeds. If you must use a slow shutter speed, a tripod will be necessary to stabilize the camera.
For more on shutter speed and some sample pictures, check here.
Aperture - This is the opening in the lens which can be adjusted to let in more or less light. You chose the size of the opening, and the camera matches that setting with the correct shutter speed. The main purpose of controlling the aperture is to control how much of the frame is in focus, and how much of the foreground and background are out of focus. (The DoF, or "depth of field")
Aperture settings are called f-stops, and are usually whole numbers or written in decimal form.
Sample settings are:
f/22 - the opening is very small limiting the amount of light allowed in; everything will be in focus all the way out to infinity; great for landscapes.
f/16
f/11
f/8. mid-range setting; good for sports
f/5.4
f/2.8
f/1.8 the widest setting allowing the most light in; depending on the distance from the camera, only the subject will be in focus while the foreground and background will be out of focus. Great for portraits.
Here is a video tutorial:
For more on aperture and some sample pictures, check here.
These 3 elements (ISO, aperture setting and shutter speed) need to be balanced to achieve a properly exposed photo. If you get it wrong, the picture will either appear too light or too dark. When this happens, think about what steps you can take to correct it. Do you need more light or less?
If you need more light because the picture is too dark, use a slower shutter speed and let more light in. (1/60 instead of 1/125 for example) But remember, your picture could be blurry because the motion can't be frozen as well at slower shutter speeds, and because it's harder to hold the camera steady.
You could try a wider aperture. (f/2.4 instead of f/8.0 for example) This will let in more light, but will also change the depth of field.
You can also increase the ISO setting to increase the sensitivity of the camera sensor. But remember, the higher the ISO, the more grainy the pictures will appear.
If the picture is overexposed and you need to let in less light, use a faster shutter speed, a higher aperture setting, or lower the ISO.
The best way to learn is to make a conscious decision to try to take a picture a certain way. For example, a portrait of a family member where the background and foreground are out of focus. Then, experiment with your camera settings and take a lot of pictures until you get a feel for it.
Here's a good step-by-step procedure.
1. Set your ISO to match the lighting conditions. (see the section on ISO above. Check your manual for how to change your ISO setting.)
2. Set your camera on Aperture Priority mode. (Av on the dial - or check your manual for how to do this.)
(this is my camera)
3. Set your aperture to a low setting - f/2.8 or lower if possible. Check your manual for how to change the aperture to a low setting once you take the camera off full automatic mode. (The green rectangle is full automatic mode in the picture above. Turn the dial back to full automatic mode when you are done with your photo session.)
4. Set up your shot. If you are doing a portrait of a person, make sure there is a foreground and a background that will appear out of focus. If you are shooting still life objects, put them far enough apart in the foreground and background that some will appear out of focus.
5. Focus on your subject. No need to worry about the Rule of Thirds for this project, but if you want to use it, you may want to set your camera on manual focus. Remember that most cameras focus on whatever is in the center of the frame. Use "Focus Lock" to focus on subjects that are not in the center, or put the camera on manual focus. (See my earlier article on focus lock here.)
5. Experiment! Take several shots of the same setup with different objects in focus. (See my chess photo below. How could I redo this setup differently? Want to try it yourself?)
6. Post a couple of your shots here for all of us to see! Send me an email and I will make you an Author: dmohr@edenca.org
7. Have fun with it!!
Project 2: Aperture Priority and Depth of Field.
This week's project assignment is to learn how to take photographs where the subject is in focus, but the foreground and background are out of focus. You should take some portrait shots of people, and some still life shots of objects around your house or the school. (Try both!)
Take some close up shots of objects sitting on a table at different distances from the camera.
Here are a couple sample shots I took to demonstrate the technique.
The knight on the right is in clear focus while the rook in the foreground and the queen in the background are out of focus. (Click the picture for a closer view.) Also notice this picture is a bit grainy because I used ISO 400. This is called "noise".
Most of the wasp is in focus, but the leaves in the foreground, and the foliage in the background are out of focus. If you look closely you can see that the DoF is so narrow that the entire wasp isn't in focus. The legs closer to the camera are a bit blurry. A higher f-stop will correct this.
I couldn't tell at the time by looking at the picture on the camera's preview window, but when I loaded it onto my computer and looked at it full size, I noticed that the trees in the foreground were in focus, but my family behind the trees were out of focus because the DoF was too narrow. The camera auto-focus assumed I wanted the trees in focus.
This could be corrected by either putting the camera in manual focus mode, or using a higher f stop.
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Build a $1 Image Stabilizer!
Here is an interesting and creative idea for when you need to hold your camera steady, but don't have a tripod with you. This short video will show you how to build an image stabilizer that is small, convenient, portable, cheap and ingenious!
There are lots of ways to avoid camera shake, but of course, using a tripod is the best. What do you do when you don't have a tripod?
Build a $1 image stabilizer and stash it in your camera bag for those times when you don't have your tripod with you.
Post your results and tell us if it works!
There are lots of ways to avoid camera shake, but of course, using a tripod is the best. What do you do when you don't have a tripod?
Build a $1 image stabilizer and stash it in your camera bag for those times when you don't have your tripod with you.
Post your results and tell us if it works!
My Pics
Here are some of the pics I took. My camera settings were acting strange though, so there is a lot of noticeable grain.
I love this picture, the wind was just right.
This is a different angle of the same thing, looks a bit better. Sorry about the angle...
What a mess!
Here is a shot with a macro focus, focusing on the blinds but not what is outside.
I like playing with focus.
Sorry if they are small, they are a lot bigger really.
Hopefully next time I will get my settings right.
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Day 1
Hey all, Andy Henderson here. I'm going to keep this short since this is the first time I'm doing this, but I just wanted to share a few of the pictures that I got walking around Eden.
The credit for the idea of this picture actually goes in part to Kathryn. We were walking around together (she didn't have a camera with her), when she urged me to take this photo of Conn's Cadillac. After taking a few more "conventional" shots of the car, I experimented with this detail shot. I have to say that I like how it turned out.
I took this picture rather spontaniously as an attempt to not only practice the rule of thirds, but to try to create an interesting contrast between the patterns of the tire's tread and the trees in the background. Although I wish I had organized the horizon line slightly lower, I still like this shot.
Although this is not one of my favorite images from the shoot, I think that the branches of the tree look interesting - almost as if they are trying to grab the tower of the Student Union.
My favorite part of this shot is how the hallway seems to never end: it just goes on forever into that white light. I also like that the lockers provide a more vivid color pallette than some of the other images.
This picture was taken later in the day in my bedroom. The shadow behind the bulb sort of annoys me, but I liked the image enough to post it anyway. I may try this one again sometime when the light is better.
Again, this picture was taken later in the day, but it has proven to actually be one of my favorites. The contrast between the yellow bags and the black shadows are intriguing, as is the unique brick-like pattern created by the slumping bags.
Thanks, everyone for looking, and thank you also to Mr. Mohr for giving me the opportunity to post! God bless!
Friday, November 27, 2009
random pictures.... thoughts?
Hey Guys (and girls)!
(this is Ella, not Mr. Mohr) So, Mr. Mohr said that we could post pictures if we want, and even though no one else has yet I thought "hey! might as well, right?" so, here's some pictures I took around campus last friday! any thoughts?
Ella V.
P.S. Please bear with me if this doesnt work... I've never posted one of these before!
Off the Ground!
The Eden Photography Club is getting off the ground on Friday 11/20/09! Our first meeting will be during activity period at the end of the day.
I passed out a list of Essential Equipment at our Activity Period Open House last week. This is the stuff you will need at each club meeting. Please make sure you bring everything (or at least as much as you have) to every meeting.
In case you lost, forgot or never recieved this handout, I will post the list again.
(Check below)
After you have taken a look around this site, and perhaps read a few posts, take a few moments to create an account and become a member. (right hand column) I will then make you a Contributor so you can write posts and articles, ask questions and load your pictures for other club members to see.
I passed out a list of Essential Equipment at our Activity Period Open House last week. This is the stuff you will need at each club meeting. Please make sure you bring everything (or at least as much as you have) to every meeting.
In case you lost, forgot or never recieved this handout, I will post the list again.
(Check below)
After you have taken a look around this site, and perhaps read a few posts, take a few moments to create an account and become a member. (right hand column) I will then make you a Contributor so you can write posts and articles, ask questions and load your pictures for other club members to see.
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Invitation to Join This Blog as a Contributor
Any of you Eden Photography Club members are welcome to join this blog as a contributor.
You need to first create a Google Account and join this blog as a follower. (look on the right hand margin...click the "Follow" link) You then need to email me (dmohr@edenca.org) from an address you check often, and request to be added as an author. When I receive your request, I will submit your email to the blog host, and they will send you a confirmation reply.
Once you are a follower and have been added as a contributor, you will be able to write your own posts, add your photos and show off your work! You can add your comments to other people's posts, too! (you can probably do that now...)
So come on, guys! Sign up and let's see what you got!
You need to first create a Google Account and join this blog as a follower. (look on the right hand margin...click the "Follow" link) You then need to email me (dmohr@edenca.org) from an address you check often, and request to be added as an author. When I receive your request, I will submit your email to the blog host, and they will send you a confirmation reply.
Once you are a follower and have been added as a contributor, you will be able to write your own posts, add your photos and show off your work! You can add your comments to other people's posts, too! (you can probably do that now...)
So come on, guys! Sign up and let's see what you got!
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Results - Rule of Thirds Project 1 by Missamo
After the discussion and slide show on the Rule of Thirds, club members went out around the school looking to practice composing photographs. I took my camera and went for a walk as well. First stop: my room where Mr. Hall was supervising the Chess Club. I snapped a few shots, and here's what I got.
I think Jourdain should be a bit more to the right. I can fix that in Photoshop Elements. He also looks slightly out of focus. I should have used focus lock when I composed the shot. Out of focus problems can't be fixed in Photoshop.
This looks a little better. The original image was cropped to put the subject in the correct position. However, the out of focus problem remains. Actually, nothing in the picture looks very crisp. This suggests a different problem: camera shake. Camera shake can be caused by several factors. The camera should be held very steady; the button should be squeezed slowly, so that it's almost a surprise when the picture is taken. Camera shake is ofen a problem when shooting in low light which forces a slower shutter speed.
Oh well...next time.
This looks a little better. It could perhaps be cropped and enlarged to show a closer view.
Like this:
Much Better! Thanks Jenny!!
This one could probably stand a little retouching, too. I could crop it and zoom in on Mr. Hall.
Or I could leave it like it is.
What do you think?
I think Jourdain should be a bit more to the right. I can fix that in Photoshop Elements. He also looks slightly out of focus. I should have used focus lock when I composed the shot. Out of focus problems can't be fixed in Photoshop.
This looks a little better. The original image was cropped to put the subject in the correct position. However, the out of focus problem remains. Actually, nothing in the picture looks very crisp. This suggests a different problem: camera shake. Camera shake can be caused by several factors. The camera should be held very steady; the button should be squeezed slowly, so that it's almost a surprise when the picture is taken. Camera shake is ofen a problem when shooting in low light which forces a slower shutter speed.
Oh well...next time.
This looks a little better. It could perhaps be cropped and enlarged to show a closer view.
Like this:
Much Better! Thanks Jenny!!
This one could probably stand a little retouching, too. I could crop it and zoom in on Mr. Hall.
Or I could leave it like it is.
What do you think?
Saturday, November 21, 2009
Using Your Camera's "Focus Lock" Feature When Composing Photos
Yesterday, we learned how to use the Rule of Thirds to compose artful and interesting pictures that are a cut above the typical snapshot. This involves putting the subject off-center on one of the gridlines, or on the intersection of two gridlines.
One problem associated with this procedure has to do with maintaining proper focus. Cameras that autofocus assume that your subject is in the center of the frame. So, whatever is centered in the frame is what the camera puts in focus. If the subject of your photo is off-center on one of the gridlines, it will be out of focus.
There are two simple ways to solve this problem:
1.) Switch the autofocus function off, and focus manually. This allows you creative control over your image. You decide what's in focus, not the sensor in your camera. However, this may not be possible on Point and Shoot cameras.
2.) Use the "Focus Lock" feature. Most 35mm cameras and many Point and Shoot cameras have this feature, and it works well when trying to compose images. You may have noticed that with autofocus on, you first need to press the button half way down to focus the subject. Then you press the button the rest of the way down to take the shot.
To use the Focus Lock feature, center your subject and press the button half way down to focus, then hold the button at that point and move your camera to reposition your subject on one of the Rule of Thirds gridlines and compose your shot.
As long as you hold the button halfway down and don't release it, the focus will be locked, and the camera will not refocus when you reposition your subject.
The top photo was composed with the Rule of Thirds in mind. The woman was placed off-center on the left gridline. But with the camera in autofocus mode, the center of the image is in focus, while the woman is out of focus.
To solve this problem, use the camera's Focus Lock feature. Center the subject in the middle of the picture. Then press the shutter button halfway down to focus, and hold it there. Holding the button halfway down will lock the focus at this distance. Reposition the subject while holding the button halfway down, then press the button all the way down to take the shot.
The camera will not refocus unless you release the button.
(sample picture from Google Images)
One problem associated with this procedure has to do with maintaining proper focus. Cameras that autofocus assume that your subject is in the center of the frame. So, whatever is centered in the frame is what the camera puts in focus. If the subject of your photo is off-center on one of the gridlines, it will be out of focus.
There are two simple ways to solve this problem:
1.) Switch the autofocus function off, and focus manually. This allows you creative control over your image. You decide what's in focus, not the sensor in your camera. However, this may not be possible on Point and Shoot cameras.
2.) Use the "Focus Lock" feature. Most 35mm cameras and many Point and Shoot cameras have this feature, and it works well when trying to compose images. You may have noticed that with autofocus on, you first need to press the button half way down to focus the subject. Then you press the button the rest of the way down to take the shot.
To use the Focus Lock feature, center your subject and press the button half way down to focus, then hold the button at that point and move your camera to reposition your subject on one of the Rule of Thirds gridlines and compose your shot.
As long as you hold the button halfway down and don't release it, the focus will be locked, and the camera will not refocus when you reposition your subject.
The top photo was composed with the Rule of Thirds in mind. The woman was placed off-center on the left gridline. But with the camera in autofocus mode, the center of the image is in focus, while the woman is out of focus.
To solve this problem, use the camera's Focus Lock feature. Center the subject in the middle of the picture. Then press the shutter button halfway down to focus, and hold it there. Holding the button halfway down will lock the focus at this distance. Reposition the subject while holding the button halfway down, then press the button all the way down to take the shot.
The camera will not refocus unless you release the button.
(sample picture from Google Images)
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
Project 1: Composition and the Rule of Thirds
Our first project is to learn to compose images using the "Rule of Thirds".
The Rule of Thirds is a well-known rule for composing images that are pleasing to the eye.
Check here for a brief tutorial and several examples of the Rule of Thirds.
Your assignment is to take your digital camera and compose several photographs of friends, teachers or interesting objects around the school grounds using the "Rule of Thirds".
Then come back in to the computer lab and download your pictures on to the lab computer and see how they came out.
Post your pictures here on the blog so we can all see!
Good hunting!
For more advanced information on the Rule of Thirds, check here.
For more useful tips on image composition, check here when you get a chance.
sample picture from Google Images
Point and Shoot Cameras vs 35mm Digital SLR Cameras - Which is best for you?
Questions and Answers for Casual Photographers
Not everybody wants to be a professional photographer. Some of us just want to take a few pictures here and there, and don't want to spend a fortune doing it. Before you confront the army of camera sales teams in your local home electronics store, take a look at this guide for casual photographers. The cost for an entry level digital camera can be high, so it's best to really think about what kinds of pictures you are hoping to take before you invest in expensive equipment that may be collecting dust after 6 months.
1. What is an SLR camera? (note: DSLR refers to a Digital SLR camera)
SLR refers to "Single Lens Reflex", or a camera that has one single lens to both view a scene and capture an image. What this means to the casual photographer is that the image you view through the lens will be the picture you take when you press the button. What you see is what you get. It also means you can change the lens to take telephoto or wide angle photos. Probably the most appealing aspect of an SLR camera is the ability to adjust the camera's settings manually for creative control over the final image.
2. What is a digital Point-and-Shoot camera?
A point-and-shoot camera uses one lens to view the scene (the viewfinder), and a separate lens to capture the desired image. This means the image captured will not be the actual image viewed by the photographer, but only a close approximation. For most casual photographers, the image is so close you won't recognize the difference. Point-and-Shoot cameras require very little manual adjustment (if any), and operate like the name describes. Focus is usually automatic. The casual photographer will get acceptable pictures but taking the really creative photographs we all admire is generally not possible with a "point and shoot".
3. Does an SLR take better photos?
Yes. With an SLR camera it is usually easier to capture high quality photos, but there is a price. Entry level Digital SLR camera prices are six or eight times higher than digital point-and-shoot cameras. SLR cameras also take time to master, and require the user to learn quite a bit more about how a camera works in order to take pictures that will "wow" family and friends.
The good news is that now that we are in the digital age, there is very little expense once the initial investment in camera equipment is made. You can take literally thousands of pictures, delete the bad ones and keep the good ones at no additional cost. (except perhaps if you want to have prints made) You can learn how your camera works much faster this way.
4. Does a "Point and Shoot" take poor photos?
No. A Point-and-Shoot camera may take high quality photos, and the quality of these cameras is constantly improving. It is more difficult to produce a professional quality photo with a Point-and-Shoot camera, but it is possible. Point-and-Shoot digital cameras now take pictures that can be printed as large as 11x17 with excellent results.
5. Is a Digital SLR worth the investment for a casual photographer?
Probably not. An SLR camera is usually the choice of serious amateur photographers and professionals. For people who just want to snap a few shots of their friends here and there, or take a picture of their dog while hiking, a digital Point-and-Shoot will produce great pictures. An SLR is bulky, expensive, and requires more time to learn. A Point-and Shoot is compact, less expensive, and easy to use straight out of the box. If you're going to spend the extra money on a DSLR 35mm camera, it makes no sense to take pictures in full automatic mode. The pictures will not be much different from a "point and shoot" camera. You should plan to spend the time and effort to learn what the camera is capable of, and make full use of the creative capabilities of its features to produce high quality images.
2006 by Porterdog http://www.associatedcontent.com
Not everybody wants to be a professional photographer. Some of us just want to take a few pictures here and there, and don't want to spend a fortune doing it. Before you confront the army of camera sales teams in your local home electronics store, take a look at this guide for casual photographers. The cost for an entry level digital camera can be high, so it's best to really think about what kinds of pictures you are hoping to take before you invest in expensive equipment that may be collecting dust after 6 months.
1. What is an SLR camera? (note: DSLR refers to a Digital SLR camera)
SLR refers to "Single Lens Reflex", or a camera that has one single lens to both view a scene and capture an image. What this means to the casual photographer is that the image you view through the lens will be the picture you take when you press the button. What you see is what you get. It also means you can change the lens to take telephoto or wide angle photos. Probably the most appealing aspect of an SLR camera is the ability to adjust the camera's settings manually for creative control over the final image.
2. What is a digital Point-and-Shoot camera?
A point-and-shoot camera uses one lens to view the scene (the viewfinder), and a separate lens to capture the desired image. This means the image captured will not be the actual image viewed by the photographer, but only a close approximation. For most casual photographers, the image is so close you won't recognize the difference. Point-and-Shoot cameras require very little manual adjustment (if any), and operate like the name describes. Focus is usually automatic. The casual photographer will get acceptable pictures but taking the really creative photographs we all admire is generally not possible with a "point and shoot".
3. Does an SLR take better photos?
Yes. With an SLR camera it is usually easier to capture high quality photos, but there is a price. Entry level Digital SLR camera prices are six or eight times higher than digital point-and-shoot cameras. SLR cameras also take time to master, and require the user to learn quite a bit more about how a camera works in order to take pictures that will "wow" family and friends.
The good news is that now that we are in the digital age, there is very little expense once the initial investment in camera equipment is made. You can take literally thousands of pictures, delete the bad ones and keep the good ones at no additional cost. (except perhaps if you want to have prints made) You can learn how your camera works much faster this way.
4. Does a "Point and Shoot" take poor photos?
No. A Point-and-Shoot camera may take high quality photos, and the quality of these cameras is constantly improving. It is more difficult to produce a professional quality photo with a Point-and-Shoot camera, but it is possible. Point-and-Shoot digital cameras now take pictures that can be printed as large as 11x17 with excellent results.
5. Is a Digital SLR worth the investment for a casual photographer?
Probably not. An SLR camera is usually the choice of serious amateur photographers and professionals. For people who just want to snap a few shots of their friends here and there, or take a picture of their dog while hiking, a digital Point-and-Shoot will produce great pictures. An SLR is bulky, expensive, and requires more time to learn. A Point-and Shoot is compact, less expensive, and easy to use straight out of the box. If you're going to spend the extra money on a DSLR 35mm camera, it makes no sense to take pictures in full automatic mode. The pictures will not be much different from a "point and shoot" camera. You should plan to spend the time and effort to learn what the camera is capable of, and make full use of the creative capabilities of its features to produce high quality images.
2006 by Porterdog http://www.associatedcontent.com
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
Essential Equipment
Photography can be an expensive hobby, especially in the beginning. But after the initial outlay of money to buy the basic essentials, there is very little cost.
Here is a list of basic essentials, and a wish list to pass on to relatives at Christmas and birthdays!
Essentials: Bring these to every club meeting.
digital camera w/ manual: You will obviously need a digital camera if you would like to join our photography club. A 35mm DSLR camera or a "Point and Shoot" camera will work nicely A cell phone camera, however, will not. A 35mm Digital SLR camera (like a Canon or a Nikon camera) has lenses that can be removed and replaced for different applications. (telephoto lenses, wide angle lenses, etc.)They are more expensive, ($500 and up) but allow much more creative control,
A "Point and Shoot" camera is much smaller and has simpler controls, but can still take very nice pictures. These can be bought for under $150.
You should bring the manual that came with your camera so you can look up how to use the various features of your camera. There are also 3rd party manuals available for the 35mm cameras which explain how to get the most out of their features. I have a Canon EOS Digital Rebel XT (bought it used) and I bought this manual to go with it.
starter lens: This would be the lens that came with your 35mm camera. Point and Shoot cameras only have one lens, and it can't be removed or replaced. If you have additional lenses, feel free to bring them!
batteries: You should have fresh or fully charged batteries available for every club meeting. Rechargable batteries and a charger work well, too.
SD or CF card: A San Disk or Compact Flash card stores the pictures you take in the camera. You must then download the pictures to a computer to view, edit or print them.
SD or CF card reader: After you take the picture, and it is stored in the camera, you must be able to transfer it to a computer. There are three ways to do this:
1.) Use a download cable and connect the camera to the computer.
2.) Use a card reader with USB port access - insert the card into the reader and the reader into a USB port to transfer the photos.
3.) Insert the card directly into a slot in the computer. (Not all computers accept all cards)
Download cable: see above
Desktop Computer or laptop: We will be meeting in the computer lab. You can download your photos into the lab computers, but don't delete the photos from your card. You will want to download them onto your computer at home.
Image editing software (free ones are available): You will eventually want to edit your photos to improve the quality of the images after they come out of the camera. Enlarging, cropping, "photoshopping" your photos, etc, requires a software program like Photoshop CS3 or Photoshop Elements. The lab computers have Photoshop CS3 on them, but you will need to edit your photos at home for the most part.
Camera bag: This is for transporting and protecting your delicate camera equipment. It would be a shame to damage expensive equipment out of carelessness or neglect.
Flash drive: A flash drive will be needed in case you edit your photos at school, and want to take them home.
Wish List: Here is a list of additional equipment you may want to consider getting if you want to get serious about photography, and want to take better quality pictures.
More expensive camera
More lenses
Laptop/computer
Image editing software (the better ones cost money)
Rechargeable batteries and charger
Extra SD or CF card
More/bigger flash drives
book for your specific camera
Tripod
Books that teach how to get the most out of the software
Bigger camera bag
On-camera flash unit
External flash unit
Tripod
Umbrella w/ flash
Here is a list of basic essentials, and a wish list to pass on to relatives at Christmas and birthdays!
Essentials: Bring these to every club meeting.
digital camera w/ manual: You will obviously need a digital camera if you would like to join our photography club. A 35mm DSLR camera or a "Point and Shoot" camera will work nicely A cell phone camera, however, will not. A 35mm Digital SLR camera (like a Canon or a Nikon camera) has lenses that can be removed and replaced for different applications. (telephoto lenses, wide angle lenses, etc.)They are more expensive, ($500 and up) but allow much more creative control,
A "Point and Shoot" camera is much smaller and has simpler controls, but can still take very nice pictures. These can be bought for under $150.
You should bring the manual that came with your camera so you can look up how to use the various features of your camera. There are also 3rd party manuals available for the 35mm cameras which explain how to get the most out of their features. I have a Canon EOS Digital Rebel XT (bought it used) and I bought this manual to go with it.
starter lens: This would be the lens that came with your 35mm camera. Point and Shoot cameras only have one lens, and it can't be removed or replaced. If you have additional lenses, feel free to bring them!
batteries: You should have fresh or fully charged batteries available for every club meeting. Rechargable batteries and a charger work well, too.
SD or CF card: A San Disk or Compact Flash card stores the pictures you take in the camera. You must then download the pictures to a computer to view, edit or print them.
SD or CF card reader: After you take the picture, and it is stored in the camera, you must be able to transfer it to a computer. There are three ways to do this:
1.) Use a download cable and connect the camera to the computer.
2.) Use a card reader with USB port access - insert the card into the reader and the reader into a USB port to transfer the photos.
3.) Insert the card directly into a slot in the computer. (Not all computers accept all cards)
Download cable: see above
Desktop Computer or laptop: We will be meeting in the computer lab. You can download your photos into the lab computers, but don't delete the photos from your card. You will want to download them onto your computer at home.
Image editing software (free ones are available): You will eventually want to edit your photos to improve the quality of the images after they come out of the camera. Enlarging, cropping, "photoshopping" your photos, etc, requires a software program like Photoshop CS3 or Photoshop Elements. The lab computers have Photoshop CS3 on them, but you will need to edit your photos at home for the most part.
Camera bag: This is for transporting and protecting your delicate camera equipment. It would be a shame to damage expensive equipment out of carelessness or neglect.
Flash drive: A flash drive will be needed in case you edit your photos at school, and want to take them home.
Wish List: Here is a list of additional equipment you may want to consider getting if you want to get serious about photography, and want to take better quality pictures.
More expensive camera
More lenses
Laptop/computer
Image editing software (the better ones cost money)
Rechargeable batteries and charger
Extra SD or CF card
More/bigger flash drives
book for your specific camera
Tripod
Books that teach how to get the most out of the software
Bigger camera bag
On-camera flash unit
External flash unit
Tripod
Umbrella w/ flash
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